'Tis the Season ...

December 6th started out with a sense of adventure. My friend, Antje, invited me to go up to New Westminster BC (Canada) to the Holland Shopping Center. Antje, born and raised in Holland until her early teens, wanted to pick up some traditional Dutch holiday things for her family. I had no particular interest in things Dutch, but I’m always up for a roadtrip!

We soon found the shop, teeming with customers! Little did I know that December 5th and 6th was Sinterklaas, which honors the life of St. Nicholas, and people were busily purchasing chocolate letters, marzipan confections, speculaas, kruidnoten, bischopswijn, gingerbread, sausages AND DUTCH CHEESE!

A little side note about St. Nicholas. He was born to wealthy parents in Patara (now part of Turkey) in the third century. He spent his life giving away his money to the poor and doing good deeds. He reportedly had a soft spot for children. Although St. Nicholas is always shown wearing his bishop’s attire, i understand the Dutch tend to see him as a kindly old man rather than a Catholic saint. The result is that Sinterklaas is celebrated by Dutch people of all ages and beliefs, without any real religious connotation. His feast day is observed by exchanging gifts and cookie or chocolate letters (recipient’s initial), making good-natured fun of loved ones with humorous poetry and homemade gag gifts that hide another present inside.

Of course, I was drawn to the cheese cooler, which was abundant with all manner of Dutch cheesiness! Holland is the largest exporter of cheese in the world, with the majority being semi-hard or hard cheeses. Famous Dutch cheeses include Gouda and Edam. A typically Dutch way of making cheese is to blend herbs and spices during the first stages of the production process.

Gouda is a semi-hard cheese with a 48% milk fat content and a mild taste. Aging intensifies the flavor and the hardness. Gouda is usually made in wheels, with a red or yellow paraffin coating, unless it has been aged for 12 – 18 months, in which case, it will have a black wax coating.

Edam is also a semi-hard cheese with a fat content of 28-40% and a very mellow, salty or nutty taste. As it ages, its flavor sharpens and it becomes firmer. This cheese is usually spherical with a red wax coating. Mild Edam pairs well with fruit such as peaches, melons, apricots and cherries. Aged Edam is often served with pears and apples. Because of the season, dried fruits also pair well with this cheese.

There are other Dutch cheeses such as Maasdammer, farmstead, goat’s cheese, smoked cheese, Leidse, Dutch blue cheese, herb cheese; and all were represented at Holland Shopping Center. It was very tempting, but I remembered that Pleasant Valley Dairy in Ferndale, just 6 miles from my home, made their own Dutch-style Gouda.

Whenever possible I buy locally to contribute to my local economy and support my local businesses, so I decided to forego buying any Dutch cheese that trip.

Antje and I paid for our purchases—mine were Dutch chocolates and cookies for Christmas gift to Anneke, another Dutch friend—and after Antje had fun gibberjabbering in Dutch with the clerk, we bid 'Doei!' to the little Dutch shop in New Westminster.

Within a week, I was pulling up to the cheese store at Pleasant Valley Dairy. I spoke with Mattie Snook, who along with her mother Joyce, now operate the cheesemaking and selling. Joyce is the cheesemaker. The farm has been in the family for three generations making raw cow’s milk cheeses.

I asked her specifically about Nokkelost, which is a Gouda cheese they started making about ten years ago exclusively for Everybody’s Store in Van Zandt, WA. They have an agreement enabling them to sell Nokkelost through the dairy store, too.
Imagine my surprise, when Mattie said Nokkelost wasn’t a Dutch Gouda, but a Norwegian Gouda with cumin, caraway and cloves. Oops! My background is Norwegian, so it worked out even better from my perspective!
Other than Mutschli, which is a Swiss style cheese, their Gouda is crafted after the Dutch way of cheesemaking and I’ve enjoyed many of their variations:
Farmstead

Mutschli (great for fondue!)

Raw Milk Applewood Smoked Cheese (I think they have their own on-site smoker)

Gouda with Fine Herbs

Gouda with Peppercorn

Gouda with Cumin

Gouda with jalapeno

A new one they’re just offering now is basil Gouda. If you like basil, this is the cheese for you!

All of their cheese is made from whole raw milk, bacterial culture, salt and natural rennet and is aged over 60 days, with older, sharper Gouda available. Joyce makes their cheese in 2-lb and 6-lb wheels. They sell by the wheel, or sliced! They also will ship wheels of cheese for you—great for gift giving!

Other than their farm store and Everybody’s, some of their cheeses are also sold at Quel Fromage in Fairhaven, and I think Beecher’s in Seattle still carries Pleasant Valley Farm cheeses.

Pleasant Valley Farms is on Facebook, so get on their list and you’ll find out about new cheese, and what is available when, and all sorts of good stuff!

A little generally about Gouda:

Exported Gouda is typically a young variety aged from 1-6 months, with a red or yellow wax coating. Old Gouda, aged 12-18 months is denoted by a black paraffin coating. If you specifically want Dutch Gouda, look for Noord-Hollandse Gouda, the cheese registered in the EU as a Protected Designation of Origin.

Unopened Gouda in wax could remain stable in a refrigerator for up to one year. Once opened, take out only what you’re going to use and wrap the rest in an airtight plastic bag or foil. Refrigerate and eat within one month.

Semi-soft Gouda is delicious served as a table cheese or a dessert cheese. In Europe, Gouda is a popular breakfast served along with fresh fruit. Later in the day, Gouda is paired well with dark-grained breads and beer, or full-bodied wines such as Chardonnay or Syrah. Gouda is also ideal for grating and melting. Swap it for Cheddar in your usual macaroni and cheese. For an authentic Gouda dish, make a Dutch fondue (kaasdoop). Melt grated Gouda with milk and a touch of brandy and nutmeg, and serve with roasted potatoes and chunks of rye bread.

I really enjoy the taste of the herbs in the Nokkelost! And the Mutschli is very smooth in taste and texture.

With Mattie wrapping up of some delicious local cheese for me to take home and enjoy, so wrapped up my Sinterklaas roadtrip.

Vrolijk kerstfeest (Dutch)

God Jul (Norwegian)

Merry Christmas!

Pleasant Valley Dairy (Joyce and Mattie Snook)

6804 Kickerville Road, Ferndale, WA 98248

360-366-5398

Everybody’s Store

5465 Potter Road, Deming, WA 98244

360-592-2297

www.everybodys.com

Quel Fromage

1200 Old Fairhaven Parkway Suite 101

Bellingham, WA 98225

(360) 671-0203

www.quelfromage.com

Silver Springs Creamery

Responding to an excellent article I read on Facebook about goat milk, a “comment” from Silver Springs Creamery popped onto my screen. I hadn’t before come across this creamery, so was intrigued to find out more about it.

I looked in my copy of Tami Parr’s “Artisan Cheese of the Pacific Northwest,” and there it was on E. Hemmi Road in Lynden, near Bellingham, WA. Nice surprise; only 30 minutes away from where I live!

I called and talked with Cara Flora, recently hired for product sales and marketing.

Eric Sundstrom is the owner/cheesemaker, who along with his daughter and son, keep the family farm running. Away I went to find out more about this local cheesemaker.

After many years working for others, Eric decided he could do better for his family and purchased his own farm in 2004, and in 2006 was licensed to make cheese from the milk of his herd of Jersey cows. The family had a devastating setback in 2007, but through sheer determination and hard work, they are back stronger than ever. It was evident while talking with Eric that aside from the fact that he’s a man of few words, he is firmly committed to and loves his farm, and is making the most of what he has. I could feel his resolve. I asked him what he loved best about his farm and he said, “Waking up early every morning and making it happen.”

When Tami’s book was published, Silver Springs Creamery had only Jersey cows and made Gouda and Jeddar (cheddar made with Jersey cows’ milk), yogurt, ice cream and sorbet.

Eric has since added to his 8 Jersey cows, some 20 Lamancha goats (an American breed with cute little nub ears close to their head) and is now offering goat milk, yogurt and gouda. He noted the increase in the demand for goat dairy products, and so moved forward to supply that demand. Silver Springs is a member of the PNW Cheese Project and a member of Sustainable Connections in Whatcom County. Respecting the land is Eric's priority, as that is what makes good milk and sustains his animals. He planted a specific blend of grains and grasses in his pastures and doesn't spray chemicals and uses organic fertilizers, which enable his animals to produce a better quality of milk.

I was provided with a sampling of just about all of their creations, and everything made my taste buds cheer with pleasure!

I was given Jersey cow milk ice cream (Vanilla and Coffee w/Heath Bar) and I ate them right away because I didn’t have good enough refrigeration at the office; several others helped me try out the ice cream. Both were so creamy and flavorful, and both get my thumbs up, although I especially enjoyed the Coffee w/Heath Bar!

I also enjoyed the fresh goat milk, and the goat milk yogurt. Oh my! The yogurt was a lot creamier than I anticipated. Had that great fresh yogurt taste, but loved the creamy consistency! Eric doesn’t include stabilizers. It’s all goat milk and live culture. Yum!

Ah … but now we get to the cheese!!!!!

You’ll find them listed and described on the Silver Springs website. So I’ll just add my own few comments.

La Jersey is a semi-hard cheese made from a blending of goat and cow milk. The two flavors I had—they offer plain, dill and onion, cumin, herb and black pepper—were both very smooth, velvety. I absolutely adored the Black Pepper! I ate it sliced on some crisp peppery crackers, and it was perfect! Definitely not too much pepper! I also had the Plain La Jersey, which was delicious both for snacking and grated onto my spaghetti last night.

Goat Gouda was a beautifully fresh tasting pale yellow cheese. Made in the traditional Dutch manner, but using goat milk instead of cow milk. This was excellent in sandwiches and as a snack by itself. I think Eric ages this cheese 4-6 months.

I also had a sample of The Big D, which is a crumbly, sharp Lamancha goat milk cheese. As the cheese ages, at least 6 months, it evolves in flavor. You’ll enjoy this robust, salty cheese.

I didn’t have a sample of Jeddar, which is Eric’s Jersey cow milk cheese aged at least 9 months. This sharp cheddar cheese should be available this summer. They also produce a classic cow milk Gouda, and Classic, goat milk aged hard cheese which is more mild than the sharp Big D.

Hard-working Eric seems to do it all! He does the milking and handling of the cows and does, AND he makes all the cheese. He creates all of his cheeses in 10-pound wheels, except for The Big D, which is made in 2-lb wheels. As you can guess, not all cheeses are available at all times. Call the farm store or check the website to find out what is ready for your enjoyment. However, Eric doesn’t quite do it all. His daughter and son, when not in school, also spend a lot of time helping with the 38-acre family farm. Eric’s son is quite proud of his free-range chickens and plans to add more to his flock. And, Cara Flora seems to be proving herself an excellent addition to the operation.

Silver Springs is a work in progress. A building houses the cheesemaking room, and the cheese aging room, with large viewing windows so visitors can see what it’s all about. Also in this building is the store and although you can now buy directly from the farm, soon the store will be enlarged to also offer free-range chicken eggs, and produce harvested from the 2 acres that will be planted with fava, spring greens, bok choy, lettuce mixes, onions, radishes and this summer Cara said they’ll have tomatillos, corn, tomatoes, hot peppers.

My photographs are rather winter dreary; everything looks better in the spring and summer months!

But there’s nothing dreary about the Silver Springs Creamery products! Although you can go out to the farm and buy the dairy products, it might be easier for you to purchase them at either of the Bellingham Co-ops,

the Skagit Co-op,

or Terra Organica.

You can also call the farm store or e-mail to have Cara ship an order of the available hard cheeses to you.

Eric plans to eventually provide a destination farm tour for visitors. I think it will be worth the wait!

In the meantime, do try all of the superior dairy products of Silver Springs Creamery. I heartily recommend them to you!

Silver Springs Creamery

Store Hours M-F 11 am - 4 pm
256 E. Hemmi Road
Lynden, WA 98264

(360) 820-1384

http://www.silverspringscreamery.com/

Thank you, Cara, for the photograph of Mt. Baker as seen from the farm!

And thank you, Eric, for taking the time to answer my questions and providing me with way more information than I could fit in this article!

Aged Gouda: Sheep versus Goat ...

I had attended a staff meeting in Bellingham and since I was in the general area anyway, I dropped into Quel Fromage in Fairhaven just to see what there was to see before I drove back to Birch Bay. Yeah right! Like I needed a reason to stop in!

Esme, one of the friendly, very cheese-saavy assistants, was still turning on the lights and getting the shop ready for business. However, she was quick to wait on me and provided ready answers to all my questions, and provided taste samples of whatever caught my eye.

One splendid benefit of buying from a cheese shop like Quel Fromage is that you can taste any of their cheeses, thus taking the guesswork out of how the cheese will taste and whether or not you’ll like it.

Another benefit is that Esme counsels you to let it age a little bit more for a fuller taste experience, or to eat it right away when it’s at its peak. You don’t find that knowledge and customer service interaction in a supermarket.

I wanted to compare a sheep’s milk gouda with a goat’s milk gouda.

I had read about Ewephoria, so knew that would be one of my choices and I had enjoyed other Cypress Grove cheeses, so Esme recommended the Midnight Moon.

EWEPHORIA

Ewephoria is a relatively new gouda-style cheese from the Friesland region of Holland. Unlike standard cow’s milk gouda, Ewephoria is made from pasteurized sheep's milk—Ewephoria—clever play on the name, yes? It is, however, made using the same carefully-guarded starter cultures that give goudas their distinctive flavor.

Here in the United States we often think of European cheeses as established, traditional, having stood the test of time, but new ones continually find their way to the public attention.

Ewephoria was developed by Seattle-based Dutch cheese importer CheeseLand, Inc. specifically for American consumers who reputedly have a sweet tooth. Do we? The idea, so it seems, was that traditional aged gouda was too harsh for American tastes and a softer, sweeter aged gouda was sought.

Ewephoria is aged 10 months, has a butterscotch color and a rather sweet, nutty, buttery flavor.

Janet Fletcher writing for SFGate, August 3, 2006, claimed, "Ewephoria is possibly as close as cheese gets to candy. The texture is firm, becoming drier toward the rind, and the flavor intense and sweet, with enough acidity to keep the cheese from being cloying."

In my opinion that “candy” description goes too far. To my tastebuds Ewephoria is not as sweet as many other more traditional cheeses. In fact, even some goudas--e.g., Saenkanter--are considerably sweeter. Then there are flavored cheeses like Chocolate Fudge Cheese, which although technically cheese, could be considered candy or a dessert.

Regardless of the perceived degree of sweetness, I found it to be a very enjoyable eating cheese, especially when paired with a cabernet sauvignon. I’m not a red wine person, but both Ewephoria and Midnight Moon tasted worlds better with the wine, versus without.

However, another reviewer stated, "With its butterscotch-colored interior with pronounced butterscotch and whiskey aromas, this cheese belongs at the end of a meal with a glass of nutty amontillado or oloroso sherry. A beer drinker would find it compatible with brews that have rich, roasted, nutty and malty flavors, such as porter and stout."

CYPRESS GROVE MIDNIGHT MOON

This is another relatively new Dutch gouda recipe cheese created for Cypress Grove Chevre of Arcata, California. This one, however, is made with pasteurized goat’s milk.

It’s aged for at least twelve months, developing a semi-firm density with a butter flavor with distinct caramel undertone. The descriptions are so similar, but there is a definite taste difference. I thought the texture of the Ewephoria was a little firmer than the Midnight Moon. My preference is for the latter. I went absolutely bonkers over this cheese! You just have to try them for yourself.

It’s encased in black wax in 10-pound wheels. It makes a great presentation.

Cypress Grove Creamery cheesemaker Mary Keehn traveled to Europe to locate cheesemakers to make classic cheeses to her specifications, to augment their production. Another winner here!

The description from their website claims: “Midnight Moon has a warm, nutty flavor with hints of caramel. This cheese won the NASFT award in 2002 for ‘Outstanding New Product.’”

Their recommended wine pairing was with Syrah or Zinfandel … but it tasted great with my Cabernet Sauvignon.

I sliced both cheeses on a plate of fresh grapes, kiwi, strawberries, cherries and mango and it was heavenly!