Aged Gouda: Sheep versus Goat ...

I had attended a staff meeting in Bellingham and since I was in the general area anyway, I dropped into Quel Fromage in Fairhaven just to see what there was to see before I drove back to Birch Bay. Yeah right! Like I needed a reason to stop in!

Esme, one of the friendly, very cheese-saavy assistants, was still turning on the lights and getting the shop ready for business. However, she was quick to wait on me and provided ready answers to all my questions, and provided taste samples of whatever caught my eye.

One splendid benefit of buying from a cheese shop like Quel Fromage is that you can taste any of their cheeses, thus taking the guesswork out of how the cheese will taste and whether or not you’ll like it.

Another benefit is that Esme counsels you to let it age a little bit more for a fuller taste experience, or to eat it right away when it’s at its peak. You don’t find that knowledge and customer service interaction in a supermarket.

I wanted to compare a sheep’s milk gouda with a goat’s milk gouda.

I had read about Ewephoria, so knew that would be one of my choices and I had enjoyed other Cypress Grove cheeses, so Esme recommended the Midnight Moon.

EWEPHORIA

Ewephoria is a relatively new gouda-style cheese from the Friesland region of Holland. Unlike standard cow’s milk gouda, Ewephoria is made from pasteurized sheep's milk—Ewephoria—clever play on the name, yes? It is, however, made using the same carefully-guarded starter cultures that give goudas their distinctive flavor.

Here in the United States we often think of European cheeses as established, traditional, having stood the test of time, but new ones continually find their way to the public attention.

Ewephoria was developed by Seattle-based Dutch cheese importer CheeseLand, Inc. specifically for American consumers who reputedly have a sweet tooth. Do we? The idea, so it seems, was that traditional aged gouda was too harsh for American tastes and a softer, sweeter aged gouda was sought.

Ewephoria is aged 10 months, has a butterscotch color and a rather sweet, nutty, buttery flavor.

Janet Fletcher writing for SFGate, August 3, 2006, claimed, "Ewephoria is possibly as close as cheese gets to candy. The texture is firm, becoming drier toward the rind, and the flavor intense and sweet, with enough acidity to keep the cheese from being cloying."

In my opinion that “candy” description goes too far. To my tastebuds Ewephoria is not as sweet as many other more traditional cheeses. In fact, even some goudas--e.g., Saenkanter--are considerably sweeter. Then there are flavored cheeses like Chocolate Fudge Cheese, which although technically cheese, could be considered candy or a dessert.

Regardless of the perceived degree of sweetness, I found it to be a very enjoyable eating cheese, especially when paired with a cabernet sauvignon. I’m not a red wine person, but both Ewephoria and Midnight Moon tasted worlds better with the wine, versus without.

However, another reviewer stated, "With its butterscotch-colored interior with pronounced butterscotch and whiskey aromas, this cheese belongs at the end of a meal with a glass of nutty amontillado or oloroso sherry. A beer drinker would find it compatible with brews that have rich, roasted, nutty and malty flavors, such as porter and stout."

CYPRESS GROVE MIDNIGHT MOON

This is another relatively new Dutch gouda recipe cheese created for Cypress Grove Chevre of Arcata, California. This one, however, is made with pasteurized goat’s milk.

It’s aged for at least twelve months, developing a semi-firm density with a butter flavor with distinct caramel undertone. The descriptions are so similar, but there is a definite taste difference. I thought the texture of the Ewephoria was a little firmer than the Midnight Moon. My preference is for the latter. I went absolutely bonkers over this cheese! You just have to try them for yourself.

It’s encased in black wax in 10-pound wheels. It makes a great presentation.

Cypress Grove Creamery cheesemaker Mary Keehn traveled to Europe to locate cheesemakers to make classic cheeses to her specifications, to augment their production. Another winner here!

The description from their website claims: “Midnight Moon has a warm, nutty flavor with hints of caramel. This cheese won the NASFT award in 2002 for ‘Outstanding New Product.’”

Their recommended wine pairing was with Syrah or Zinfandel … but it tasted great with my Cabernet Sauvignon.

I sliced both cheeses on a plate of fresh grapes, kiwi, strawberries, cherries and mango and it was heavenly!