Who you callin' sophisticated?

I enjoy that friends are so gracious in sharing information they come across because they know I'm fascinated by artisan cheese and writing a blog about my encounters with cheesemakers and mongers. Janet McCall at The Northern Light in Blaine brought this quote to my attention:

"The increasingly sophisticated American palate for the 300 varieties of natural and specialty blended cheeses sold in the U.S. will pace future growth in a $14 billion retail market that is projected to be on fire by 2020, according to 'Natural and Specialty Cheese: The U.S. Market and a Global Perspective,' a first-of-its-kind report by market research publisher Packaged Facts. The retail natural and specialty blended cheese market showed healthy growth from 2005 to 2009, posting a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 7%. Packaged Facts projects the market will approach $17 billion by 2014."

That's a lot of cheese, folks! I found it interesting and encouraging seeing the volume of natural and specialty blended cheese being made here and/or imported. However, one aspect of that quote didn't feel right, "a sophisticated palate." I would have been more comfortable with the term "educated" rather than "sophisticated."

I'm definitely not sophisticated.

In meeting and talking with local creamery owners and cheesemakers, I've been impressed by their knowledge and talents, and moved by their hardships and victories, their passions and dreams. They are, for the most part, humble protectors and advocates for soil conservation, passionate about their livestock and their cheese, and taking pride in making the best product they can for their clients. Sophisticated is not generally a term I would use to describe them.

Then there are everyman, ordinary consumers, like me, who aren't interested in the elitist, social snobbery, of eating cheese deemed high-brow.

I hope to encourage more consumers to re-connect with their food sources. I'm not climbing up on my soapbox ... but ... I think it valuable for the health and welfare of our communities that local cottage industries be supported and sustained by folks who live right next door, particularly when they are providing a healthy, incredibly good tasting product!

Wow! Little did I realize that phrasing would tweak a nerve. If you want to be sophisticated, I promise I won't hold it against you! I'm simply trying to promote the benefit of educating myself (and maybe others) about artisan cheese and cheesemakers.

Fantastico!

Anneke Pearse, a dear friend and mighty proud mama, wrote to tell me that her son Erin and his wife Michelle sent a recipe to http://www.recipezaar.com/Easy-Crusty-Jalapeno-Cheese-Bread-Fantastico-354609 and she thought I might want to include it on Chatterbox Cheese. Wasn’t that nice of her? I do, indeed want to pass along this delectable bread recipe.

Check out the link for the m-a-n-y wonderful comments about this yummy bread! I also wanted to give credit to Brenda for the photograph that was included with the recipe on Recipezaar.

Although the recipe calls for a 15-oz package of shredded sharp cheddar cheese, I recommend you buy a locally produced sharp cheddar cheese and shred or grate it yourself. It DOES taste different!

Thanks, Anneke, for contributing to Chatterbox Cheese!

And thank you, too, Erin and Michelle!

MichelleAndErinFeb 8, 2009
Extremely simple yeast bread with cheddar & jalapeño ribbons; crusty exterior. A gorgeous artisan bread derived from "Jim Lahey's No-Knead Bread" method.

SERVES 12 , 1 round loaf

Ingredients

3 cups all-purpose flour (or bread flour)
1/4 teaspoon instant yeast (not regular yeast)
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
1 cup cornmeal
1 (15 ounce) jar sliced jalapeño peppers
1 (15 ounce) package shredded sharp cheddar cheese

Directions

1. Important: you will need a heavy pot with a lid. A Dutch oven is ideal; I just use a heavy stew pot with thick sides. I start the dough at 9pm if I want it for dinner the next day.

2. In a large bowl combine flour, yeast and salt. Add 1 5/8 cups water, and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy and sticky. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest at least 12 hours, preferably about 18, at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees.

3. Dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles. Lightly flour a work surface and flop dough onto it. Fold it over on itself once or twice. Put some flour on your hands if the dough sticks to them. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest about 15 minutes.

4. Divide the bag of cheese into 1/4s, and divide the jar of peppers into 4 portions, too, taking care to remove any stems or woody bits.

5. Remove plastic and press the dough flat. Sprinkle it with a portion of peppers and cheese. Fold in half, press flat, sprinkle again. I usually use only 3 of the 4 portions of cheese/peppers. Mash it into a ball, pressing firmly to seal the seam.

6. Generously coat a cotton towel (not terry cloth) with cornmeal; put dough seam side down on towel and dust with more cornmeal. Cover with another cotton towel and let rise for about 2 hours. When it is ready, dough will be more than double in size and will not readily spring back when poked with a finger.

7. At least a half-hour before dough is ready, heat oven to 450 degrees. Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (cast iron, enamel, Pyrex or ceramic) in oven as it heats. When dough is ready, carefully remove pot from oven. Drop dough into pot, taking care not to burn your fingers. It may look like a mess, but that is okay. Shake pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed; it will straighten out as it bakes.

8. Cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 or longer, until loaf is beautifully browned. This may take as long as 60 minutes total bake time, but mine is usually done by 45 min total.

9. Cool on a rack. Listen to it crackle as it cools.

Silver Springs Creamery

Responding to an excellent article I read on Facebook about goat milk, a “comment” from Silver Springs Creamery popped onto my screen. I hadn’t before come across this creamery, so was intrigued to find out more about it.

I looked in my copy of Tami Parr’s “Artisan Cheese of the Pacific Northwest,” and there it was on E. Hemmi Road in Lynden, near Bellingham, WA. Nice surprise; only 30 minutes away from where I live!

I called and talked with Cara Flora, recently hired for product sales and marketing.

Eric Sundstrom is the owner/cheesemaker, who along with his daughter and son, keep the family farm running. Away I went to find out more about this local cheesemaker.

After many years working for others, Eric decided he could do better for his family and purchased his own farm in 2004, and in 2006 was licensed to make cheese from the milk of his herd of Jersey cows. The family had a devastating setback in 2007, but through sheer determination and hard work, they are back stronger than ever. It was evident while talking with Eric that aside from the fact that he’s a man of few words, he is firmly committed to and loves his farm, and is making the most of what he has. I could feel his resolve. I asked him what he loved best about his farm and he said, “Waking up early every morning and making it happen.”

When Tami’s book was published, Silver Springs Creamery had only Jersey cows and made Gouda and Jeddar (cheddar made with Jersey cows’ milk), yogurt, ice cream and sorbet.

Eric has since added to his 8 Jersey cows, some 20 Lamancha goats (an American breed with cute little nub ears close to their head) and is now offering goat milk, yogurt and gouda. He noted the increase in the demand for goat dairy products, and so moved forward to supply that demand. Silver Springs is a member of the PNW Cheese Project and a member of Sustainable Connections in Whatcom County. Respecting the land is Eric's priority, as that is what makes good milk and sustains his animals. He planted a specific blend of grains and grasses in his pastures and doesn't spray chemicals and uses organic fertilizers, which enable his animals to produce a better quality of milk.

I was provided with a sampling of just about all of their creations, and everything made my taste buds cheer with pleasure!

I was given Jersey cow milk ice cream (Vanilla and Coffee w/Heath Bar) and I ate them right away because I didn’t have good enough refrigeration at the office; several others helped me try out the ice cream. Both were so creamy and flavorful, and both get my thumbs up, although I especially enjoyed the Coffee w/Heath Bar!

I also enjoyed the fresh goat milk, and the goat milk yogurt. Oh my! The yogurt was a lot creamier than I anticipated. Had that great fresh yogurt taste, but loved the creamy consistency! Eric doesn’t include stabilizers. It’s all goat milk and live culture. Yum!

Ah … but now we get to the cheese!!!!!

You’ll find them listed and described on the Silver Springs website. So I’ll just add my own few comments.

La Jersey is a semi-hard cheese made from a blending of goat and cow milk. The two flavors I had—they offer plain, dill and onion, cumin, herb and black pepper—were both very smooth, velvety. I absolutely adored the Black Pepper! I ate it sliced on some crisp peppery crackers, and it was perfect! Definitely not too much pepper! I also had the Plain La Jersey, which was delicious both for snacking and grated onto my spaghetti last night.

Goat Gouda was a beautifully fresh tasting pale yellow cheese. Made in the traditional Dutch manner, but using goat milk instead of cow milk. This was excellent in sandwiches and as a snack by itself. I think Eric ages this cheese 4-6 months.

I also had a sample of The Big D, which is a crumbly, sharp Lamancha goat milk cheese. As the cheese ages, at least 6 months, it evolves in flavor. You’ll enjoy this robust, salty cheese.

I didn’t have a sample of Jeddar, which is Eric’s Jersey cow milk cheese aged at least 9 months. This sharp cheddar cheese should be available this summer. They also produce a classic cow milk Gouda, and Classic, goat milk aged hard cheese which is more mild than the sharp Big D.

Hard-working Eric seems to do it all! He does the milking and handling of the cows and does, AND he makes all the cheese. He creates all of his cheeses in 10-pound wheels, except for The Big D, which is made in 2-lb wheels. As you can guess, not all cheeses are available at all times. Call the farm store or check the website to find out what is ready for your enjoyment. However, Eric doesn’t quite do it all. His daughter and son, when not in school, also spend a lot of time helping with the 38-acre family farm. Eric’s son is quite proud of his free-range chickens and plans to add more to his flock. And, Cara Flora seems to be proving herself an excellent addition to the operation.

Silver Springs is a work in progress. A building houses the cheesemaking room, and the cheese aging room, with large viewing windows so visitors can see what it’s all about. Also in this building is the store and although you can now buy directly from the farm, soon the store will be enlarged to also offer free-range chicken eggs, and produce harvested from the 2 acres that will be planted with fava, spring greens, bok choy, lettuce mixes, onions, radishes and this summer Cara said they’ll have tomatillos, corn, tomatoes, hot peppers.

My photographs are rather winter dreary; everything looks better in the spring and summer months!

But there’s nothing dreary about the Silver Springs Creamery products! Although you can go out to the farm and buy the dairy products, it might be easier for you to purchase them at either of the Bellingham Co-ops,

the Skagit Co-op,

or Terra Organica.

You can also call the farm store or e-mail to have Cara ship an order of the available hard cheeses to you.

Eric plans to eventually provide a destination farm tour for visitors. I think it will be worth the wait!

In the meantime, do try all of the superior dairy products of Silver Springs Creamery. I heartily recommend them to you!

Silver Springs Creamery

Store Hours M-F 11 am - 4 pm
256 E. Hemmi Road
Lynden, WA 98264

(360) 820-1384

http://www.silverspringscreamery.com/

Thank you, Cara, for the photograph of Mt. Baker as seen from the farm!

And thank you, Eric, for taking the time to answer my questions and providing me with way more information than I could fit in this article!

Gustos Maravillosos!

Every time I pass any cheese counter, I catch sight of the Manchego cheese and I think of Spain. España! I mean, just the sound of it conjures romantic, exotic visuals! Sí?

From my one and only visit—so far—to Spain way, way back in 1972, I only remember a couple of places. Oh my! That’s 38 years ago; amazing that I remember anything about Spain! But, I do remember the feel of the city of Madrid in May, and the totally European tourist/non-Spanish feel of Torremolinos, along the Costa del Sol—what I remember most about Torremolinos were the Germans and Swedes frolicking on the beach and partying all night! I remember Toledo and El Greco’s paintings, and who could forget Barcelona!

So, how does Manchego fit into this quixotic imagery? First of all, it’s an aged whole milk cheese (at bottom of the platter shown above) made of the milk of manchega sheep in La Mancha. The climate in that region of Spain is harsh, favoring the growth of very tough plants that comprise the diet for an ancestral breed of sheep. This very specific combination produces a very specific tasting cheese. There are recorded attempts to make Manchego cheese elsewhere in and outside of Spain, but the results do not compare to the regional taste of the cheese made in the La Mancha region.

La Mancha was named by the Arabs, who termed it Al Mansha, or waterless land, a perfect description of this rocky, high plateau (2,000’) region of Spain. It forms an ecosystem of vegetation—mainly grains and legumes—that survives the extreme summer heat and the deep frosts of the La Mancha winter, and the breed of sheep that adapted and thrives in those conditions. (Doesn’t it remind you of the extreme, elongated forms painted by El Greco? I know. I know. That has nothing to do with cheese!)

Manchego cheese is probably one the most important and well-known sheep’s milk cheeses in Spain. The rich, semi-firm cheese is aged in natural caves for three to six months. It has a characteristic shape and definition, due to the traditional use of grass molds, which imprinted a zigzag pattern along the side of the cheese wheel. A wooden board was used for pressing the cheese, which also imprinted a typical wheat pattern on the top and bottom. Now modern manufacturers use molds that replicate that traditional patterning.

It’s a protected regional cheese and is labeled “Denominación de Origen Protegida” (D.O.P.) If it doesn’t have that labeling, the cheese is known commonly as a “Manchego style” cheese. Aside from the milk having to come from regional sheep, the labeling also attests to the fact that the aging period is a minimum of 60 days. The cheese is pressed and uncooked, the color is ivory to pale yellow, and you do not eat the rind.

The taste? I’ve seen it described as “Delicious-slightly piquant and nutty” on www.cheesefromspain.com/Manchego. I think it has a distinct, complex taste, but not too strong, slightly buttery, and a little salty, but not unpleasantly so. Some say it has a sheep milk after taste, but I don’t think my taste buds are that sophisticated as to discern that, or maybe I do and I just don't know the lingo. It’s semi-firm and slices or grates easily.

I ate it with Spanish olives, which are very salty, and it made a pleasant combination. I also put a little slice of quince paste, or a teaspoon of fig spread on a slice of Manchego and it was heavenly! The slightly sweet was excellent with the slightly salty.

“Cheese From Spain” recommends a pairing with a robust red wine (Rioja) or a dry sherry (Fino). It’s said, “The aromatic intensity of a Manzanilla wine makes it an excellent foil for this cheese.” If you’re not a wine person, try this cheese with Pilsener or medium-bodied beer.

A traditional way to enjoy it in Spain is having it served on toasted bread that has been rubbed with garlic and tomato, then drizzled with olive oil.

We can thank “Food & Wine” and Jose Garces for the following recipe. Talk about comfort food!

Herbed Potato Gratin with Roasted Garlic and Manchego

Ingredients
3 heads of garlic, cloves separated but not peeled
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 qt half and half
1 tbsp chopped thyme
1 tsp chopped rosemary
salt and freshly ground pepper
5 lbs Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and very thinly sliced
9 oz aged Manchego cheese, coarsely shredded (2 C)
5 oz San Simon or smoked Gouda cheese, shredded (1 C)

Directions
Preheat oven to 375º. In 9-in cake pan, drizzle garlic with oil. Cover with foil and roast 40 min., until tender. Let cool, then squeeze out the cloves.

Mash the garlic to a paste and transfer to a saucepan. Add hald and half, thyme and rosemary and bring to boil. Simmer over very low heat until reduced to 3 cups, 20 min., season with salt and pepper.

Arrange ¼ of the potatoes in the bottom of a 9x13” baking dish. Top with ¼ of the shredded cheeses and drizzle lightly with the garlic cream. Repeat the layering with the remaining potatoes, cheese and cream. Pour any remaining cream on top and press the top layer of potatoes to submerge it.

Bake the gratin for about 1-1/2 hrs, until golden and bubbling. Let cool for 20 min. before cutting into squares and serving.

Aside from the recipe above and the simple cheese slices with quince or fig, I also tried Manchego cheese quesadillas (see photos). It was good tasting, but I got my fruit mixed up and my photos show cranberries in the cheese. The recipe actually called for quince paste cut up and included in the melted cheese … oops … the cranberries weren’t bad, I ate the whole thing, but I later tried the quesadillas with quince paste and they do taste better. Another way I enjoyed eating the Manchego quesadillas was without any fruit in the melted cheese, but eaten along with a sweet, delicious tangerine. Oh! And another time I threw some seasoned cooked chicken chunks into the quesadillas and that was yummy! Let your imagination be your guide.

I found a number of other great recipes like Cheese-stuffed Risotto Cakes and an absolutely mouth-watering Black Pepper-Manchego Cheese Puffs! You can find them at http://www.chow.com/

I did a sampling of five different Spanish cheese, and Manchego was only one of the five, but it seems to have dominated this entry. So, I’ll talk about the other Spanish cheeses in the next blog entry.

Buying and cooking with this cheese didn't improve my high school Spanish, nor did I immediately break into thrilling and accomplished Flamenco dance steps. But my good ol' American tastebuds did absolutely delight in the experience! I must admit that I did a little shoe stomping and syncopated clapping as I prepared my quesadillas! Olé!

References
http://www.foodandwine.com/
http://www.chow.com/
www.quesomanchego.es/ingles/