Monday, December 7, 2009

American Cheese ...

I watched a Kraft Cheese commercial on television last night touting themselves as THE American cheese. I knew a little about Kraft cheese, but thought I would look into the history a bit more.

Why?

Because that American entrepreneurial spirit and sense of discovery is resulting in American artisan cheesemakers creating incredible advances in the world of artisan cheese and claiming more competition prizes from other countries who have reigned superior for a very long time.

But back to Kraft American Cheese.

James Lewis Kraft, a Canadian born on a farm near Ontario in 1874, was the founding father of Kraft Cheese.

At age 18, he worked at Ferguson’s grocery in Fort Erie, and later invested in a cheese company in Buffalo.

While in Chicago, Illinois attending to the company branch there, he found his partners had eased him out of the partnership.

Although he found himself lacking funds and stranded in Chicago in 1903, he put his knowledge of merchandising to good use. He bought a horse and wagon, and went every day to the wholesale warehouse district where he bought cheeses wholesale and resold them to small stores.

Kraft proved his retailing determination and was so successful that several of his brothers joined his efforts and the cheese business was incorporated in 1909.

Kraft was driven to improve, or change, certain qualities in cheese to give it a longer shelf life and more uniform flavor. Until that time cheddar cheese, which was the favored cheese in the United States, either molded or dried quickly, so there was excessive waste. It also varied greatly in taste.

As a result of years of experimentation to give cheese longer lasting qualities, Kraft’s major contribution to the cheese industry in America was processed cheese. He experimented with mixtures of cheeses and found that if he heated and stirred the cheese and placed it in sterile containers, it would cool to a solid state and stay fresh longer. He was granted a patent for the “Process of Sterilizing Cheese and an Improved Product Produced by Such Process” in 1916.

Since then, Kraft has diversified into many industries and last night I saw the most recent example of that company’s claim as the American Cheese.

I bring this up because Kraft tried to eliminate the very aspects of cheese that artisan cheesemakers are offering to appreciative cheese consumers today. Where Kraft wanted conformity and consistency, there are cheese connoisseurs the world over who delight in the taste differences between a spring cheese and a winter cheese, who appreciate that the cows (or sheep or goats or buffalo) grazed on alpine slopes or limestone valleys or wherever in the world they grazed because it affects the taste of the milk and thereby the cheese. Artisan cheese aficionados tout the exquisite taste experience of a fresh cheese versus the developed flavors, complexities and textures of an aged cheese.

There’s room for all cheese in this big, wide world of ours! But in this big, wide world of ours, American artisan cheesemakers are starting to reign innovative and influential!

It’s been interesting to read how “American Cheese” has grown from a simple dairy craft to world authority.

Move over, Kraft!





www.kraft.com.au/Products/KRAFTHistory/
www.cookingdeliciousfood.com/kraft-cheese/

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