Friday, March 12, 2010

It's a matter of personal preference ...


Yesterday I went into our little beach market on the corner and handed the cashier a couple of heads of garlic I wanted to buy. As she rang up the purchase, she said she had never used fresh garlic; she just sprinkled on what she wanted from a little jar of dried garlic powder. I told her how simple it is to use garlic cloves and how it makes whatever one is cooking so much tastier. She said she would have to try it one of these days. I knew she was just being polite and I didn’t belabor the issue … to each their own …

But, the conversation got me to thinking about the Parmesan article I just uploaded and the vast taste difference between Kraft grated Parmesan and grating my own imported Parmesan.

Cooking with the freshest ingredients results in better tasting food. It may take a little more time and it may cost a little more for your groceries, but it’s better for you and tastes better--a good value in my estimation!

Speaking of good tastin’ stuff, try out this appetizer recipe that combines Parmesan AND garlic:

Hot Garlic-Parmesan Soufflé

15 cloves garlic peeled
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth or stock
2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, room temperature
(Dare I suggest substituting Mascarpone—Italian style cream cheese—for cream cheese??? It IS more $$$ Maybe we’ll save Mascarpone for another day. Or, perhaps you have a local creamery that makes its own cream cheese! Yay!)
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 (10.5-ounce) can cream of low-sodium mushroom soup, undiluted
2 egg yolks, beaten
1 loaf baguette bread, thinly sliced.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine garlic cloves and chicken broth; bring to a boil and poach 15 minutes or until garlic is soft. Remove garlic cloves to a small bowl and allow them to cool. When cool, mash with a fork; set aside.

Cook and reduce chicken broth to a glaze; remove from heat and set aside.

In a large bowl, combine cream cheese, Parmesan cheese, mushroom soup, garlic-chicken glaze, mashed garlic, and egg yolks; stir until well blended. Transfer into a shallow ungreased 1 1/2-quart soufflé dish.

Bake, uncovered, 45 to 50 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from oven and serve with bread.

Serves many!
Enjoy!
PS ... of course you could go the extra kilometer, and make your own chicken broth with less sodium, and your own mushroom soup without all the preservatives, and use those in the above recipe. Wouldn't it be fun to see how much it actually DOES taste better making your own than using canned broth/soup?
Isn't it wonderful to have a choice?

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Advantages of an 800-year old Italian Tradition ...



Pasta al dente, sauce bubbling ready, I had tossed in a bit of smoked salmon given to me by a friend. It all smelled heavenly! I had a small wedge of Reggiano Grassi Parmesan and grated enough for my spaghetti and I was soon in gastronome heaven!

Wait a minute now … gastronome seems a bit pretentious, so I looked it up: “Gastronome – a person devoted to refined sensuous enjoyment (especially good food and drink) bon vivant, epicure, epicurean, foodie, gourmet sensualist—a person who … “ I got the picture.

Food is a sensuous experience for me, but let’s get real! I hate being labeled, so let’s ditch the gastronome label. I digress …

When I reached into the frig for the cheese, I noticed my roomie had a readily identified green Kraft container of 100% Real Grated Parmesan Cheese. I’ve used this brand of grated parmesan cheese my whole life. If there was spaghetti or ravioli or whatever Italian dish on my dinner table, there was Kraft Real Grated Parmesan Cheese right next to it. I must admit, in all that time I consumed it, I had never read the label. Container said it was real cheese, it was parmesan, it went onto my pasta.

But now that I’m educating myself about cheese, I read labels:

Kraft
100% Real Grated Parmesan Cheese
No Fillers
Ingredients: Parmesan cheese (pasteurized part-skim milk, salt, less than 2% of enzymes, cheese culture, cellulose powder to prevent caking, potassium sorbate to protect flavor) aged 6 months.

Well now, powder to prevent caking and a preservative. They're not cheese.

A little investigation and I found that commercial parmesan cheeses common in North America typically differ from Parmigiano-Reggiano in several ways:

The cheese is aged for a shorter time, i.e., Kraft cheese is aged 6 months, whereas Grassi Parmigiano-Reggiano is aged a minimum of 18 months, Zanetti UCI Parmiagiano-Reggiano is aged 2-3 years. The longer the cheese ages, the more complex and desirable the taste.

The curds for Parmigiano-Reggiano are cut into fragments the size of wheat grains, which is much finer than the fragments created in the manufacture of the American version of Parmesan. The smaller curds drain more effectively.

American Parmesan is mechanically pressed to expel excess moisture.

Parmesan wheels in the United States average 24 pounds. The size difference can affect their salt saturation during the brining process; a typical 75 pound Parmigiano-Reggiano wheel contains two-thirds less salt than the average Parmesan.

It is often sold grated. Cheese will lose much of its flavor if it is grated, then stored. Better taste if you grate only as much as you’ll need for the meal.

There is no outside body regulating or supervising the quality of the raw ingredients or of the production process in the United States. In Italy, Parmigiano-Reggiano is completely regulated. No additives are permitted and cows must be fed a special diet—no silage—the milk is considered “grass-fed.” To produce the cheese, morning and evening milk are combined, skimmed, then heated in copper vats under the watchful eye of a master cheesemaker who knows just when the curd has set. The concave wheels are cured in brine for about 24 days and then placed on racks where they are turned and brushed continuously throughout curing. The regulating body comes in and tests throughout maturation of the cheese and does not add the coveted export stamp to the wheel unless it adheres to all production stipulations.

I’ve not researched … yet … who in the United States makes and sells a domestic Parmesan. But I did find a recipe for making Parmesan cheese in “Home Cheese Making” which includes recipes for 75 cheeses you can make at home and then recipes for cooking with cheese. Author Ricki Carroll writes her book in an easy to follow manner, and throws in all sorts of cheese lore. She’s also the owner of New England Cheesemaking Supply Company, which provides information and cheesemaking equipment and supplies.

Jumped around a bit this time, but the end result was spaghetti that was a totally satisfying taste sensation. Why go to all the time and effort of preparing good spaghetti and then cut it off at the knees by shaking on Kraft Parmesan, when you can quickly and easily grate your own and make the meal Benissimo!


Home Cheese Making, Ricki Carroll
Culture, the word on cheese, Spring 2009
The Cheese Plate, Max McCalman and David Gibbons
The Complete Idiot's Guide to Cheeses of the World, Steve Ehlers and Jeanette Hurt

Friday, March 5, 2010

Taking good health to heart ...



I had another article in mind to upload today, but it will wait. Instead I wanted to share something I read today as I wandered through the wonderful articles and descriptions and photographs in the current issue of "Culture." This is a delightful periodical ... "the word on cheese."
I'm repeatedly hearing about the sustainability purposing of the dairy folk I'm meeting. It's more than just the cheese; it's the whole package mentality. Taking care of the land, in turn, takes care of the milk stock, making better cheese ... ah ha! BUT, as I read an article by nutrition expert and author Dr. Marion Nestle, I learned yet another good effect of land taken care of takes care of me!

I've also had acquaintances comment that they don't eat cheese because of the "bad fat." I wondered about that. I keep eating cheese, but I wondered. The following is what Dr. Nestle had to say about both good fat/bad fat and the land ...

CULTURE:
"There's a lot of talk these days about "good" fat versus "bad" fat. Where does cheese fit into that discussion?

Dr. Nestle:

In a word: moderation! Saturated fat--the kind found in dairy products--is so-called bad fat, the kind that raises blood cholesterol and increases the risk of heart disease. Cheese is right up there as a leading source of saturated fat in the diet, along with other dairy products and beef. How worried should you be about this? It depends on what the rest of your diet looks like, how active you are, your weight, your genetic inheritance, and whether or not you smoke cigarettes. If you maintain a healthy lifestyle and if heart disease doesn't run in your family, the amount of cheese you eat eat isn't nearly as critical as it might be for someone in the opposite health situation.

Cheese lovers can also take heart (pun intended) in the hopeful results of newly emerging research about CLA--conjugated linoleic acid--a natural trans fat found in cheese and other dairy products made from the milk of cows that have fed on grass. CLAs appear to behave more like good fats, helping to improve cholesterol and triglyceride profiles in the body and maybe doing all sorts of other positive things such as preventing cancer, enhancing immunity, and strengthening bones. When one nutritional component is said to do so much, however, I'm usually skeptical. But the research on CLA is promising--stay tuned for more of it."

Dr. Nestle goes on to endorse moderation in cheese consumption for most people. Treat yourself to a moderate helping of a really excellent cheese, instead of a less than satisfying reduced fat cheese. Even a small portion of cheese grated on steamed veggies or in a hearty soup, or shavings included in a crisp spring greens salad, etc., are soooooo taste incredible! It isn't necessary to eat a whole wedge of cheese.

But, let's back up a bit. "... cheese and other dairy products made from the milk of cows that have fed on grass." Why, that sounds to me like exactly what the smaller local dairy folk I'm meeting are advocating and putting into practice. They pasture feed their milking stock, and while their fields aren't producing during the dead of winter, they have special feed to replicate those same nutrients their stock gain from being grass fed--no silage. You want cheese from grass fed milk!
I like the sound of CLAs behaving like good fat and providing all those marvelous advantages, don't you?
I encourage you to pick up a copy of "Culture" and finish reading the rest of Dr. Marion Nestle's article for other info about milk from different animals, and about vegetarianism.
I also encourage you to learn a little about the makers of the cheese you eat. A little self-education could add up to better health ... and a healthy appreciation for the artisan cheesemaker!